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Choosing Fruit Trees for Your Garden

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February Rain in the Garden The Prudent Homemaker
 

Spring and fall are the best time to plant fruit trees in a garden. They're also a great time to find fruit trees on sale at your local nursery. If you're ordering from a catalog, you will most likely need to order in spring, as most fruit trees only ship in spring.


First, you'll need to know your zone. This is essential for choosing a fruit tree that will grow well in your garden.

After determining your zone, you'll need to ask yourself a few more questions:

Cold Hardiness: If you live in a place where it freezes and winters are cold, "hardiness" is something that will matter in your decision. Trees that are not hardy for where you live will be killed by freezing temperatures. When choosing a tree, look to see if it is hardy to your cold winter (for example, "hardy to -25ºF", "hardy to -40ºF", etc.). If the tree is not hardy for your area, choose a different variety. Most trees are hardy to USDA zone 5; some will go to zone 4. In colder areas, you may need to work harder to find trees that will do well in your climate. In USDA zones 3 and colder, you may find there are more berries that will grow in your area then larger fruit trees. Growing berries may be your best choice for fruits.



Chilling hours: If you live in a warm climate, making sure that your fruits get enough hours of cold to produce fruit is important. Most fruits perform best in USDA zones 7 and below; however, there are some trees, such as citrus, that prefer it to not freeze at all (citrus can handle a few hours of below freezing, but do not do well when temperatures are below 28º for more than a few hours and will suffer significant branch loss at that point; if temperatures turn colder, the tree can die).

Chilling hours are the number of hours between 32-45ºF that you receive in the winter. Temperatures that are colder than that do not count towards chilling hours. Temperatures slightly above that each count as a half chilling hour, and warmer temperatures count as negative chilling hours. Trees are usually labeled low chill, medium chill, and high chill, though they will sometimes list actual chilling hours.



The actual hours are especially helpful when you want to have to trees of the same fruit that are ripe at different times. I grow two different peaches: Desert Gold and Early Elberta. Desert Gold is a low-chill tree that ripens for me in May. Early Elberta is a mid-chill variety that ripens in July. (The regular Elberta tree is high-chill and is not the best choice for our climate, as it has higher chilling hours. That tree usually ripens in August or September, depending on your region).


I did the same things with apricot trees. I grow a Royal Apricot in my back yard. It is self-fertile and ripens in May. My father-in-law has an apricot tree that ripens 3-4 weeks earlier than ours. With some research, I learned that there are two other apricot trees that ripen that early. One of them is called Katy. I went to a different nursery to purchase this tree so that we could enjoy fresh apricots twice a year, a few weeks apart. I planted Katy in the front yard last year; it has 15 apricots on it this year, and it should be ripe soon. It only requires 150 chilling hours, so it was the second tree in my garden to blossom. It flowered the first week of February.

Throughout a city, there are several microclimates. This means that your area may not be just one specific zone. Higher and lower elevations will affect your property and can change the zone dramatically. For example, the Las Vegas valley where I live can be anywhere from a zone 8b to a zone 10a. I am actually a zone 9a (though the general hardiness zone map I linked to above puts me at an 8b; a more specific map puts me more accurately in a zone 9a, which has first frost dates of November 15th and last frost dates of February 15th; our frost usually falls the first or second week of December, and we might get another frost in January--which could even make us zone 9b or 10a).

You can also have microclimates within your property--even if you live on a small lot. How much shade or sun an area receives in winter can make one place warmer and another place colder. Keep this in mind when choosing a place to plant your fruit trees. I grow a few moderate and high chill fruits in areas that are shaded from the walls during the winter. This makes it more likely that those trees will fruit for me.
 
 
Spacing is another important choice. Full-size fruit trees take up a large amount of space and take longer to fruit than semi-dwarf and dwarf trees. Most of the trees I grow are semi-dwarf types. They fruit a year or two earlier than full-size trees, but more importantly, I can grow 10 semi-dwarf trees in the space needed by one full-size tree. This is how I am able to have 42 fruit trees on a .24 acre lot. In addition, I can reach the fruit more easily.
 
 

When choosing an individual fruit tree, look for one with a straight trunk. This is one of the nice things about choosing at a local nursery that isn't possible when purchasing online.



Fruit trees can be planted in the ground, but also in pots. As a tree's growth is limited by the size its roots can grow, choose as large a pot as possible to grow potted fruit trees. Dwarf and shorter trees are good choices for pots for this reason. I grow oranges and pomegranates in pots, and I am looking to add hazelnuts in pots in the future. If you are renting, growing a fruit tree in a pot means you can take it with you. I love that I can put pots on my patio and add to my growing space.

Pollination is a very important part of choosing a fruit tree. If you want to only grow one tree of a certain type (one apple, one plum, one cherry, one peach, etc.) it must be self-fertile. If it is not, you will never get any fruit from that tree. Most of the trees I grow in my garden are self-fertile, as I have a large variety of fruit, chosen specifically to have something ripe each month over 7 months.


 

If the tree you want is not self-fertile, you must determine what type of tree will pollinate it. Nursery tags and catalogs are helpful with this; they usually tell you what other tree you must plant in order to pollinate your tree. This other tree must be planted nearby (usually within 25 feet). For most trees, this is fairly simple. Apples, however, are much more complex, as they have trees that are sterile (cannot pollinate themselves or other trees), are mixes (and cannot be pollinated by either type of parent tree), and flower at different times (apples can ripen June through February, depending on the variety!) If you want to grow a number of different apple trees, do your research before choosing any that are not self-fertile to ensure that you have the proper pollinator.



I prefer, whenever possible, to buy fruit trees from my local nursery. This helps me in several ways:

1. The trees are less-expensive.

While the cost of trees has gone up $5 at my local nursery since I purchased the bulk of my fruit trees, they are still much less costly than ordering online. In spring and fall, there are usually sales as well. Regular price here is currently $24.88 a tree, and they go on sale for $19.88 (citrus trees are $5 more).

2. I get a potted tree that I can see is growing

My personal experience has been much more successful with potted trees over bare-root trees. The trees have a strong root system and grow bigger and stronger than bare-root trees. I look for healthy branches and growing buds to make sure they are living.

3. I get taller trees

The choices at the nursery are much bigger than catalog choices. I always purchase a 5 gallon tree that is 3 to 4 feet tall. (Our nursery also sell much larger trees for $100 if you don't want to wait for fruit and are willing to pay a lot more). These trees are older and will bear fruit a year or two sooner than a smaller tree.

Of course, you may not have access to a local nursery, or your local nursery doesn't have the type of tree that you want. In that case, ordering online may be your only option. It is important that you plant bareroot trees before the last frost in your area. They need to be planted when they are dormant. Our last frost date is February 14th; most companies do not ship that early, which means I am more likely to have trees die. If your last frost date is May 15th, however, you can still order bareroot trees to put in the ground now.


For a complete list of the fruit trees that I am growing in my garden, check out the column on the right-hand side of my Kitchen Garden page.


Are you adding any fruit trees to your garden this year? So far this year I've added another Meyer lemon and another Stella cherry tree.


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Tulips in the White Garden

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The tulips are up in the white garden. They bloomed just in time for the garden tour last Saturday.

 
 
 
The tulips take all the attention, but the edibles are thriving in the white garden too. If you didn't notice them in the first picture, you're not alone. My garden tour attendees didn't see them at first, either, which also means they're not immediately noticeable to my neighbors. The flowers steal the show, and unless you're looking for them, you won't see the edibles, which is just the way I planned it.
 
 
The Katy apricot has fruit on it already. This tree ripens 3-4 weeks before my Royal apricot, which means we'll have fresh apricots twice. I specifically sought out this tree, not knowing what it was called, but knowing that it had fewer chilling hours than my Royal. My father-in-law's tree is always ripe 3-4 weeks before ours, so I figured out what would be ripe then, and went to a different nursery that carried this particular tree.

 
Near the Katy apricot is this Swiss chard plant. Iris are coming up in front of it. The grass-looking wisps near it are leeks. Just out of view of the picture to the left is a bush variety of zucchini. 
 
I'll plant basil in place of the iris when they're done blooming.
 
 
 
In the upper planter behind the bench are mache, spinach, tarragon, oregano, and my new Meyer lemon tree. Behind the lemon tree I added some garlic chives this year. A single daffodil is up here, but others are starting to come up in this area. When the mache and spinach are harvested, Armenian cucumbers will take their place. I planted seeds for them this week in the garden. 
 
 
 
I planted two thyme plants between the roses. While the roses are edible, rose-petal jelly is prettiest with pink or red flowers, so I will be leaving these roses as landscape roses. They are a floribunda rose, so they will bloom every 2-3 weeks until frost. They're just about ready to bloom for the first time this year.
 
 
Next to the driveway is this planter. Eventually the bushes will grow larger and be pruned into ball shapes. The yellow flowers are the decorative white kale that are bolting. They grow well here from October to early spring. It's time for me to pull them. Between the bushes are daffodils; one has come up here as well. To the left of the daffodils is a red looseleaf lettuce, and to the left of that is parsley, which is still rather small. I'd like to stop buying dried parsley, so I have been planting it all over in order to have enough. I've realized that I would like to use a lot more than I have in the past, which is also incentive to grow more. 
 
The lettuce will be replaced by basil when it gets hotter; I planted basil seeds to the right of the dripline. I usually don't plant basil until April, but everything bloomed here a month early and it is plenty warm enough for the basil seeds to germinate.
 
In the same planter, to the right of the daffodils, is a different red leafed lettuce, and then I have some white alpine strawberries that have just germinated. To the right of that, lining the walkway, are white violas (these are edible if you like edible flowers on things). The violas are tiny, and it will be a month or two before they bloom, as I am growing them from seed. Violas can be planted as plants in October here and grow all winter, but seeds were more cost effective. I may try seeding indoors in mid-summer for fall plants this year.
 
 
Closer to the front door there isn't as much direct sun. In this area, I have primroses planted in front of parsley. When they primroses fade, the parsley will fill this space. The vine in the center of the picture is a passionfruit vine. I don't know how it will do in this space, but it as it grows it will reach sun further up the wall.


Not photographed are the peach and lime trees, nor the chamomile that is starting to come up.

The next flowers to bloom should be the Star of Bethlehem, daffodils, ranunculus, and roses. I'm looking forward to them!
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Grow Your Own Herbal Tea

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Chamomile The Prudent Homemaker

This post contains affiliate links.

Most of the time, we drink water at my house. I start the morning off with a 16 ounce glass of water, and I drink many more glasses of water during the day.

For many years, I have grown peppermint and chamomile in the garden. I had the children cut the chamomile when it was ready, and I cut the peppermint and brought it in before we had our first frost about 5 weeks ago.

The peppermint will grow back when it warms up, but the leaves need to be harvested before it freezes.

Both of these are really easy to grow. Mint can be in full sun to filtered shade. You can buy a tiny plant at the nursery in the spring and gather plenty by frost (you can also plant mint from seed; I have the most success from a plant). You can take cuttings from that plant, put them in water, and have them rooted in a short time. You can then have more mint plants to take over your garden to share with friends. Mint spreads by runners and seeds and can be quite invasive, so choose a dedicated spot for it. Some people prefer a pot, but mine kept drying out in our extreme heat, so last year I purchased a new plant and put it back in the garden.

I put some dried peppermint leaves in a tea ball and fill the cup with boiling water, and let the tea ball soak for a few minutes. You can use a teapot if you wish, or you can heat a regular pot on the stove, or heat the water in the microwave.
Peppermint Tea The Prudent Homemaker

 
Chamomile is easily grown from seed. There are two types of chamomile: Roman and German. I have had the best success with German Chamomile. The seeds are very tiny and are sprinkled over the top of the soil, as they need light to germinate. If planted in an undisturbed place (where you don't till) they can reseed all on their own. Chamomile is quite fun, as the flowers look like tiny daisies.  To harvest it, you cut the flower heads and dry them. I usually assign this job to the children. (I also allow them to pick some to make crowns). This year I planted seeds in the front yard, where they will be able to grow among the other white flowers in the white garden. You can sometimes purchase chamomile as plants, but you'll need several, so buying seeds is the more economical way to go. You can find seeds from several different seed companies.

Both herbs are lovely for an upset stomach, and peppermint is wonderful in combating queasiness. I enjoy having them on occasion on a cold day, though peppermint tea* would also be lovely iced.

Growing your own herbs for herbal teas is much less expensive than buying it in a tiny box of tea bags, or than buying dried herbs in bulk.

Do you like to drink herbal teas? Do you grow any of your own herbs for that purpose?



* Note: Americans generally refer to herbal infusions as herbal teas (even though they do not use the tea plant), whereas they are known as tisanes (pronounced "tee zans") in other places. I prefer the term tisane, as it is more clear, but I defer to the term most commonly used in my country.

I primarily drink herbal teas for medicinal purposes. I drink red raspberry tea, which strengthens the uterus, and is helpful during pregnancy as well as during the menstrual cycle. It is high in iron, and helps remove back pain, menstrual cramps (I find that it is more effective than ibuprofen), and helps remove pregnancy pains.

During my last pregnancy, I also brewed a mixture of half red raspberry and half nettle tea to increase my iron, as I was anemic.

Red raspberry does not grow well here, and I do not grow nettles, so I purchase those cut and dried in bulk from San Francisco Herb Company. They also sell peppermint leaves.
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Garden Tour Announcement

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This is my garden last spring in mid-March. The trees and the daffodils are in bloom, and it's beautiful.


Would you like to see it this year?

The weather should be lovely.

I will be having a tour on Saturday, March 15th, from 10 a.m. to noon.

My white garden should be blooming, so for the first time, I will be including the front yard in the garden tour. Several hundred bulbs should be in bloom there.

The tour is a 2-hour class, where I'll teach about gardening in the desert, including soil, drip irrigation, choosing fruit trees, pruning, thinning, what grows well for me, and about the different fruit trees, vegetables, vines, and flowers in my garden.

The cost is $10. The class is open to adults only. Space is limited to 35 people.

To reserve your spot, please send me an email with your name and the number of people who will be attending.

My email is brandy (at) theprudenthomemaker (dot) com

If you live in Las Vegas, Nevada, or want to make the drive that weekend (I've had attendees from Utah, Arizona, California and Idaho before), I'd love to meet you!



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January Gardening Goals

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January is the busiest month in my garden.


With our first frost usually falling in early-mid December, and our last frost in mid-February, I have a short season while my plants are dormant in which to prune in the garden. (In fact, we usually only have two or three periods of frost each winter).

With 40 plus trees and a myriad of grape vines, berry bushes, and roses, there is quite a bit to do.

After the trees, bushes, and vines are pruned, they need to be sprayed to fight diseases and kill any overwintering pests. I spray mine with an organic dormant oil made from cottonseed. I may change to spraying them with diatomaceous earth mixed with water sometime in the future, but for now, I still have plenty of oil left to use (purchased with a $25 off $25 coupon from an organic gardening company).

At the end of the month, I'll fertilize the fruit trees, berry bushes, and roses.



This year, I'm working to finish planting the bulbs that I ordered last year for the garden. I still have several hundred to get in the ground. They had to be in the refrigerator for 10 weeks because of our warmer climate. I'm only averaging to plant 50 a day, so it will take me a bit longer to finish.

I need to fix a few problems with my drip system where I've pulled a few lines loose.

While the plants are dormant, I am going to dig up the pomegranate in back that is not getting enough sun and transfer it to a pot on the patio that I purchased last spring. I have been waiting since April to be able to do this, as plants are best transplanted when they are dormant.

I am also transplanting a grape vine that is in the same area to another place in the garden. With more sun, it should do much better. I usually grow snow peas there, so I'll have to transplant the snow pea seedlings and move them to a new spot in the garden.

I need to plant more cool season vegetables seeds in the garden.

Those things should keep me outside working every day but Sundays this month!

Tagged in: Goals The Garden
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White Garden Reveal

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Here's a reminder of how it looked before (for the last seven years, and the three years before we owned it):


And now, right before sunrise:


Can you see the edible plants? No? Good. Most of my neighbors don't, either. I'll point them out in more pictures.

Another great change is that we went from one tree to eight trees in the same space.


The vines that are climbing up on both sides are Lady Bank's Roses. They will bloom prolifically once a year for three weeks. Most of the year they will be evergreen. These roses with miniature blooms grow in U.S. zones 8-10, and they come in yellow and white. The white ones have thorns and also a slight perfume. They are fast growers. I planted these very first; they were 2 feet high in April and now are 8 feet tall. Ideally, I'd like them to grow above the entry way, which means I need to convince my husband to make a support system for them. We cut 6" wire mesh into a long, single row for the support on each side., and my husband cut pieces from cement board to help hold it away from the wall a little bit. He screwed it through the to help provide better support, and we glued the to the stucco as well. We hope these hold, as it is just about impossible to support anything in stucco.

Basil is growing on the outer edges of the walkway, to be replaced with parsley in winter and spring (there are seeds coming up there already).

It's hard to tell, but there are six bushes lining the walkway. When these get large enough, they will be pruned as rounded bushes.

Vincas are growing up the walkway in the summer. Like the basil, these will die at the first frost. The plan is to grow violas in their place, but none have come up for me yet. I have also been trying white alpine strawberries to grow right next to these, but only 3 have sprouted. I will continue to try these.

In the center of each side planter area are miniature white pumpkin plants. These have grown slowly this year and aren't giving me anything this year, but I will try again next year.

In the fall and winter I am growing lettuce up the center of the walkway. I have seeds coming up already.

Come spring, bulbs will line these walkways, including white daffodils, a late snowdrop-looking bulb, and Star of Bethlehem bulbs.

The concrete walkway all the down to the street makes me so happy! I love that it's wider than the walkway that the builders had there, so two people can walk side by side, comfortably. I also like that it isn't necessary to walk through the driveway to get the mail, unless I wanted to cut through the yard and slip on the rocks.


Alongside the walkway is a Maypop passionfruit vine. This area may get too much shade for the vine, but hopefully next year it will grow bigger and give us flowers and fruits. It is supposed to die back to the ground each year.

Underneath the passionfruit vine I am growing parsley and tarragon.


By the front door I planted gardenias in these urns. The front door is in the shade all day long. The gardenias are evergreens. When they get larger I will prune them as round bushes.

I struggled with designing this garden for several years. I am so happy with the design I decided on. My husband is really happy that I got rid of all of the grass, which means he no longer has to bring the mower all the way around the house to do a tiny spot in the front. He also doesn't have to worry about weeds in the rocks anymore.

Here's what the view from the driveway looked like before.


And now here's how it looks:


Doesn't it look so much larger? It's amazing how much space was actually there once we pulled out those bushes. They were five feet wide!


Eventually the small new bushes will grow together to make very distinct beds. The zucchini will only be able to grow there a few summers. At that point, the trees will be bigger and will shade the garden more. In the spring, tulips and ranunculus will grow where you now see zucchini.

In the back, upper planter, I have planted three semi-dwarf Meyer lemon trees. The lemons have beautiful, fragrant white flowers. These will eventually grow to cover the wall that divides my house from the neighbor's house. His is the corner lot, and that wall is his backyard. I'm the only one in the tract that has this wall in my front yard.

The planter is that high because the concrete footer for the wall slopes downward toward the street. I had hoped that the entire wall was as low as it is in front, but it gets higher as it goes toward the direction of my house.

Under the lemons I am growing oregano. I have planted mache to grow in the winter along the front of that planter; earlier I grew Armenian cucumbers there. I should be able to grow cucumbers there for a few years before it is too shady to grow them there.

To the left of the bench is an Early Elberta peach tree. This is an exception to my white garden; the flowers are pink. If I end up regretting having planted it there because of that, I will replace it with something else and possibly pot the peach for the backyard.

Across from that to the right is a Katy apricot. This tree blooms really early; it ripens 3-4 weeks before the Royal Blenheim apricot in my backyard. I specifically wanted this kind so that I can have not only more apricots, but fresh apricots more than once. It should be the first tree to ripen in the garden.

The two red-leaved trees are flowering plums. We planted these for the deep red leaves that cover them for most of the year. They rarely fruit, and the variety that our local nursery carries almost never fruits. We had these at my last house in town and we loved them. I planned to plant them in our backyard when we moved here, but instead I planted apple trees in their place. I have mixed feelings about having trees that do not fruit, but I also know that these were so beautiful. The trees flower in the spring with pale pink, almost white flowers.

My plan is to prune the peach, apricot, and flowering plums to keep them as medium-sized, rounded trees.


On both sides of the garden I am growing 5 Iceberg rose bushes. I specifically chose these as they are a floribunda rose, which means they repeat flower over and over, about every 2 weeks, with a few blossoms here and there in between.


On the side of the house, the two rose bushes at each end are a climbing variety of iceberg roses. My hope is that they grow to cover the front of the house on each side of the window, up to the roof.


The valve boxes (there are two of them, one behind the other) take up a lot of room in this corner. Most of it has a concrete footer that comes from the house and the wall that divides the house; in fact the concrete slopes up in the right-hand corner. We lightly covered it with dirt, but anything that grows her can mostly have shallow roots if it is close to the wall. This area is also very shady all year. I have tried growing a few things so far up the trellis (which is simply 6" wire mesh cut into a square and hung on the diagonal) but so far none of my plans have done well, so what I end up growing here may change.

The lime was added in a pot that used to sit by the front door. I put the pot on top of the valve box, making that space useful for growing.

We also moved the anti-syphon valve back into this corner. It was originally right in the middle of the yard right under the window.

If you look closely again, you can see the drain that my husband put in, and the concrete that leads to it from the special block with the holes in it from the backyard. The backyard drains into the front yard on the rare times that it rains. The drain empties out through the front lower wall into the low bed by the street.

The bushes in the foreground will grow into a hedge that is just above the wall. The two bushes that are in the pots will be pruned to be round as they grow large enough.

I have planted bulbs and seeds to fill in the areas that are just dirt now. You can also see the artichoke plant that is coming up from seed as well.

Under the peach tree I planted dusty miller. There is also some planted under the apricot tree that is just out of the picture.

 
These are the zinnias that I planted from seed in July. They are 4 feet tall right now. My neighbors have gushed on and on about these. They should grow until frost, which can be as early as mid-November here, but is usually the second week of December.

Underneath these are vincas that I also planted from seeds. They are like impatiens for the sun, and they like it hot and sunny. These will also perish with the frost. I have viola seeds that I hope will grow here.

In this area, I planted bulbs and seeds. The week before Christmas, the bulbs that I have been prechilling will be ready to be planted there as well. By then, the paperwhites that I planted here will be up and in bloom. In subsequent years, the paperwhites will bloom in late November.

We put in a narrow (2 feet wide) sidewalk here. Our neighborhood doesn't have sidewalks, and this little walkway means we can walk to the mailboxes that are at the end of it without having to go into the street. It also means that I don't have to kneel in the street to garden in this lower bed.

Basil is dwarfing the bush in the foreground, but later that bush will grow tall enough to cover that corner and be clipped into a round. Come Christmas time when the bushes are that big, I plan to drape these bushes with net lights.


To save money on putting in the garden, I did several things:

I used over $300 in coupons from the local nursery. They had several $20 off coupons and a few $25 off $40 coupons this year.

I combined those coupons with sales on different items. I purchased almost every plant from the nursery on sale over several months.

For one of the trees, I had to visit a different nursery. Their price for fruit trees for $11 higher than my closer nursery's regular price. I asked them to price match the other nursery in town, and they did.

I bought seeds instead of plant for the annuals. I also found a place (Outside Pride) that sells seeds in 1000 seed packets for $4.99 (more on that in a bit).

I ordered my bulbs in bulk from a wholesale company (you can read more about that in my post 1000 Flowers). Most of the bulbs that I chose will naturalize here and return year after year. They will multiply, which means in a few years I will have even more flowers.

We borrowed a backhoe from a friend and my brother-in-law, who knows how to drive it, dug up our front yard and used the back hoe to help us move dirt. The only thing we had to pay for was the gasoline. This was a huge savings of both money and time.

We bought the wall block on clearance. I also ordered it online, so that I could go through Ebates to get 2.5% back. We picked it up ourselves with our trailer so we did not have to pay any delivery charges.

I used a $10 off coupon on the center urn.

I purchased 4 urns on clearance for 50% off.

I went through Ebates when I ordered the plinth online to get 3% back.

We did most of the work ourselves--tearing out the old, moving rock, digging up dirt, putting in new dirt, laying the wall, including cutting the block for the ends, running water lines and power, installing and wiring the valves, and running drip irrigation. The only work we paid for was the concrete.

We had concrete laid with a texture, and had it cut to look like slate, rather than installing actual slate.

We used the backhoe to load the old tree, roots, concrete, and old dirt into another friend's dump truck. We were able to dump it at the dump for free using our trash bill to show that we lived here and pay for trash (they almost didn't let us because it was in a dump truck, but it wasn't a company truck--just a friend's personal, very old dump truck, held together in front with white duct tape!) The dump truck saved us the huge cost of renting a dumpster. We did pay the friend for his gas and time.

A friend gave us some of her old garden dirt, which filled in two large areas in the garden, saving us money on dirt.

I used the bench that I had and fixed it. I used the metal mesh that we already had on hand to make all of the trellises. I planted the lime in a pot that I had bought many years ago.

The entire garden is watered with drip irrigation.



Sources:

Star Nursery (local nursery): Boxleaf euyonomous, Greenspire Euyonomous, semi-dwarf Meyer lemon trees,  dwarf Mexican lime tree, Semi-dwarf Early Elberta peach tree, flowering plum trees, sage, thyme, oregano, and tarragon plants, snapdragons, white carpet rose, white Iceberg roses, white Iceberg climbing roses, Vetchii gardenias, Lady Bank's rose, Dusty Miller, dirt, drip irrigation, valves

Plant World Nursery (local nursery): Semi-dwarf Katy apricot

Concrete work: Shorty Nihipali

Lowe's: Block wall and cap (discontinued item), the center garden urn, the paint to paint it and the plinth (below) a different color, pipes, cement board, concrete, drain cover

Home Depot: Plinth under the center urn

Target: 4 garden urns in 2 sizes, hose reel

Wildseed Farms: white zinnias (I recommend buying the ounce size)

Outside Pride: Seeds for the following items: periwinkle (vincas), Genovese basil, White Perfection violas, foxglove, Christmas Rose (hellebore), caraway, White King larkspur, stock, lavender, Vesca white strawberry, arugula, corn salad (mache)

Van Engelen: All bulbs: Narsissus Ziva (Paperwhites), Iris White Wedgewood, Iris Reticula Natascha, Leucojum Aestivum (A type of late spring extra-large snowdrop), Orinthogalum Umbellatum (Star of Bethlehem), Ranunculus White Shades, Tulip White Emporor, Narcissus Curlew, Oriental Lily Casa Blanca, Peony Festiva Maxima.

Territorial Seed: Maypop Passionflower plant, seeds of the following: lettuces, Italian Parsley, German Chamomile, Mascara lettuce, Baby Boo Pumpkin

Burpee: Rouge d'Hiver lettuce, Black Seeded Simpson lettuce, Summer Squash Burpeee Hybrid Zucchini (a bush variety)


Other posts on the work on my white garden:

Garden Bench Makeover
1000 Flowers
Sneak Peak of The Front Garden
Front Garden Update
Front Garden Update
Dreaming on Paper


This post is linked to Inspiration Monday, Metamorphosis Monday, Monday Funday, Inspire Me Tuesday, Cozy Little House, Not Just a Housewife, Wow us Wednesdays, Whimsy Wednesdays, The Vintage Farmhouse, My Romantic Home, Jennifer Rizzo, Feathered Nest FridayFrugal Friday, From My Front Porch To Yours,

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